When you wake up one day and say “I fancy a Microbrand Submariner Watch..”

That moment of realisation that you need to see what Subs are currently on the market, and it leads to hours of research, scrolling through Facebook posts, looking for reviews by owners, and looking through forums. We have all been through it, but this happened the other day to me when the need for a sub grew too large.

I will not say what I have decided from the search, but will be posting another related post soon, so watch this space (pun intended).

Apologies because some watches have slipped though the “Microbrand net” and you might feel the need to say “but they are not a microbrand”, but if anyone is looking to buy a watch they would not stop at just Microbrand watches, and more importantly you may just realise the good value that a microbrand watch can offer.


Ocean Vintage Military

This is a great looking watch, great movement choice of an ETA 2824-2 Elabore and the price is exceptional, at €380 ( £317.00) it has to take the prize for value for money. I am drawn to think about the case quality though.




ETA 2824-2 Elaboré

  •  Swiss Made
  •  automatic
  •  25 Jewels
  •  second stop


  • screwed Crown


  • Stainless steel 316 L satined
  • Diameter 42 mm
  • Height 13 mm
  • Weight 100g
  • Lug width 22 mm spring bar
  • Sapphire glass domed, with double anti-reflecting coatings on the interior side
  • Bezel black vintage
  • Back Stainless steel 316 L screwed
  • Waterproof to 30 ATM


  • Dial black vintage
  • Super Luminova vintage
  • hour and minute with Superluminova ” old Radium “
  • central second hand


  • Strap Stainless Steel 22 mm screwed
  • Buckle Stainless Steel 22 mm safety deployment clasp



TNT Torsten Nagengast Timeline

The Seahunter 3 Wakmann Edition by Benno Richter

This is a great looking watch, and i am tempted just on the looks, whilst it is missing the vintage lume, it is gaining a great amount of points for being a Wakmann watch, even though i still can not really get my head around the story of Wakmann in the current trading climate, the vintage brand is fast becoming an iconic must have with collectors and this one is a really smart looking watch considering that only 9 were produced.

Again we have an ETA 2824-2 movement, I love this movement and trust it. The price comes in at €713.00 ( £596.35 ).

wakmann seahunter 3

Quantity: 9
Functions: Day, Hour, Minute, Centralsecond
Case Material: Stainless Steel 316L
Case Back: Steel
Diameter: 43 mm without crown
Dial: black, Index luminova
Movement: ETA 2824-2
Movement Typ: Automatic
Strap / Size: 22mm
Waterproof: 30ATM
Warrenty: 2 Years
Benno Richter is well known as the Breitling specialist and writer of the famous Breitling book. Worldwide and specialy around erurope,
he is very famouse as “the Breitling knower”. His book created a new reference for collectors, specialists and watchlovers. But he is also a great watchmaker and a real master in watchmaker-art. His engineer-office of time-measuring is also very well known for its high precision and quality.
The Initiator
WAKMANN Germany stands for quality and highest request. Since we started, we took care that high grated technology  is used to reach and exceed international standards. Due to this and because of the close solidarity of Wakmann and Breitling
in the 70’s and 60’s, Benno Richter was the initiator of another successful co-operation. As an advisor and technical leader, he is actively and decisive involved in development and manufacturing of our watches. Thats why some of the first new WAKMANN Germany watches will be labeled as “by Benno Richter”.
Watches by Benno Richter
Since a few years, “Benno Richter” labeled wristwatches are availabel. But in the past, they have only been sold to good friends and a very small circle of some special resellers. These watches will also be available in the future and be part and complete the collection of WAKMANN Germany.
WAKMANN Germany watches are produced under maximum quality standards. Every watch is regulated under severest controll of Benno Richter. Only the best watches can pass the final controll and get his appoval for selling. Service and technical works are made at the engineer-buero of Benno Richter and contolled by himself.





If you had asked me a week ago I would have said “Who?” but a week later they are right up there on my ‘must check’ list.  What other brand can make a claim of….. (even though some have tried and been shot down in flames)

“Replaced the Rolex submariner issued watch (the Cabot Watch Company auto divers watch was issued in 1980 The CWC RN Quartz was issued 82/83 onwards).”

Again its an ETA 2824-2 which is a tick, the price is £879 with more available in June this year. (they win the biggest no nonsense website award)

CWC naval

Item code: 35620
Please check availability.
New stock arriving June.


  • First issued early 1980s to Royal naval divers.
  • A truly superb timepiece.
  • Replaced the Rolex submariner issued watch (the Cabot Watch Company auto divers watch was issued in 1980 The CWC RN Quartz was issued 82/83 onwards).
  • Water resistant to 30 atmospheres, 300m.
  • One-way time elapse bezel.
  • Stainless steel case, screw back.
  • ETA 2824-2 Swiss automatic mechanical movement.
  • Luminova markings.
  • Swiss Made, Swiss parts.
  • Supplied with 20mm grey strap



NTH Janis Trading

Amphion – Vintage, Black, No Date

If you hang around Facebook and microbrand sites you will probably know of Chris Vail, he is very proactive and lives the dream when it comes to owning your own watch brand. The Amphion is a great looking watch, vintage Lume model shown. The movement is a Miyota cal. 9015 Automatic and comes in at £468.90.

As Chris says “The Amphions were directly inspired by the Rolex MilSubs issued by the UK MOD to their divers, and as such, I made sure to name that design after a class of Submarine employed by the UK Navy (all the NTH Subs’ names come from international classes of submarines)”.



The NTH Subs are our tribute to some revered icons, tracing their heritage back to timepieces issued to military divers in the post-war period. Those quintessential tool watches have only gotten better-looking with age. We wanted to combine their classic, rugged style with modern capabilities.

Each Sub model shares the same purpose-oriented, big-crown, no crown-guard case, with a slightly raised, double-domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and no-nonsense case back with minimal decoration.

Think of it as neo-classic.

We increased water resistance and gave it a sloped steel bezel with lumed markers. Yet we made the case thinner, more streamlined, with chamfered sides and downward-curved lugs for a wrist-hugging shape, and added our signature lumed crown.

Each NTH Sub has its own personality, designed either to emulate the weathered good looks of a well-traveled vintage piece, or as a modern interpretation of what those vintage pieces might look like if they were still being produced today.

  • Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
  • Caseback: Solid, 316L Stainless
  • Display Crystal: Double-Domed Anti-Reflective Sapphire
  • Water Resistance: 30 ATM / 300 meters
  • Bezel: 120-click uni-directional
  • Bezel Insert: Steel with Lumed Markers
  • Crown: Screw-down
  • Case Diameter: 40mm (without crown)
  • Case Length: 48mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.5mm
  • Lug Width: 20mm
  • Weight w/ bracelet: 4.9 oz / 140g
  • Movement: Miyota cal. 9015 Automatic
  • Accuracy: -10~+30 seconds/day
  • Beat Rate: 28,800 BPH
  • Power Reserve: More than 42 hours
  • Warranty: 2 Years




The Glycine is a modern twist on the sub, so not so traditional as the others, so I choose the one that hinted towards vintage. I am not really sure what the movement is, and there are various rumours about the movement changing, sometimes an ETA, sometimes a Sellita, but since i do not know for sure i will list it as intended ‘GL224’. I shopped around a bit and pricing was £540.00 – £830



The Glycine Combat watch collection was first brought to life during the swinging 60’s, a time when a line of sturdy but captivating watches was coveted by the growing class of sporty, masculine and self-assured men. Through the years, Glycine Combat watches enjoyed an unbroken popularity within military and sport circles and by combining near perfect dimensions, outstanding resistance and all round good looks, Glycine have secured this audience within their most recent collection.

This Glycine Combat Sub watch is driven by an exquisite GL224 Swiss automatic movement which is hidden within a 42mm stainless steel case which promises an impressive water resistance of 200 metres and a power reserve of 38 hours. Housed beneath the scratch resistant sapphire crystal glass is a striking black dial set with indexes and hands painted in orange Superluminova and a date aperture at 3 o clock. To complete the Glycine Combat Sub watch, a black and grey NATO strap and stainless steel pin buckle is added for a final touch of security and sophistication.

  • Packaging Glycine Watch Packaging
  • Warranty Glycine Official 2 Year Guarantee
  • Supplier Model No. GL0083
  • SKU GL-470
  • Bezel Unidirectional
  • Bracelet/Strap Synthetic
  • Case Depth 10.6mm
  • Case Material Steel
  • Case Width 42mm
  • Date Yes
  • Dial Colour Black
  • Gender Mens
  • Movement Automatic
  • Water Resistant 200M





Davosa have a very good reputation and were a must to have a look at. The Ternos is a great looking watch and comes with an ETA 2824 (renamed DAV2824) – Price bracket between £600-£750 or there about – shop around


Some watches don’t have an easy time of it. On one hand they have vital functions to perform, while retaining a characteristic allure on the other. Many watches find it hard to rise to this often somewhat contradictory challenge. Not the case with the redesigned Ternos Professional TT from DAVOSA. This timepiece is a consummate professional and easily accompanies the wearer down to depths of up to 500 metres. And after punctually resurfacing, it makes a truly eye-catching statement on the wrist.


Reference: 161.559.50
Worlds: Diving
Case: all stainless steel
Movement: automatic, DAV2824
Crystal: anti-glare, sapphire
Water resistance: 50 ATM
Functions: date, helium valve
Bezel: high-tech ceramic, unidirectional turning
Dial: black
Numerals: indices
Luminosity: SuperLumiNova
Case back: screw-in
Strap/bracelet: stainless steel
Gender: men
Length: 42 mm
Thickness: 15.5 mm
Width: 42 mm




Raven Watches


I don’t really know much about The Endeavour, it is currently in a Pre Order phase, but will come with an ETA 2824-2 movement and will be available for $899 USD + shipping. Only artistic renders are available.



The Endeavour 1 has a deep black semi-gloss dial with polished maxi style lollipop hands. The 45mm case is brushed on the top and polished on the sides.

The Endeavour is available for pre-order and production will begin soon. When the watches are ready they will ship on the bracelet and include a 22mm Italian made rubber strap, a leather case, warranty card and extra spring bars. You receive a $100 discount for placing the pre-order at this time. Production will take 4-5 months to complete.

Technical Specs

• 45mm case at the bezel, vertical taper to 42mm at the case back.
• 49.6mm lug to lug, 15.8mm case height.
• 316L Stainless steel case, brushed and polished sides.
• 22mm bracelet with adjustable divers clasp and 22mm Italian rubber strap.
• Double dome sapphire crystal with AR coating on the inside.
• Regulated Swiss ETA 2824 mechanical automatic movement.
• 1000 meter water resistant case with screw down crown and case back.
• C3 Super-LumiNova on the dial hands and both bezel pips.
• Drilled lugs for easy removal of the bracelet for strap changes.
• Bezel with lume triangle at 12 and lume pip at 30 minutes.
• Some specs may change or be added as we complete this design process




Sea Shadow III Magnum 43.5mm SEA300

Being a person that has owned an Ancon it is safe to say I loved it, so any excuse to look at another is always a good thing. The Sea Shadow III does not disappoint and the price bracket is good. The Miyota is a respectable movement choice, not an ETA, but a lot of people like them so there is no argument from me. Nice vintage Lume on the hands and markers.

Currently priced at £467.00 on their website.


  • Hours, minutes and seconds.
  • Stainless Steel case, brushed finishing, 43.5mm diameter excluding crown, 52mm from lug to lug, 16.5mm thick, 21mm Lug, steel case back.
  • Miyota 90S5 automatic movement, 24 jewels, power reserve 42 hours up, 28,800 vibrations per hour.
  • Black with Super Luminova luminous hour markers.
  • Steel screw-down crown, 8mm diameter, Water-resistance to 1000 meters (3300 feet).
  • 43mm steel uni-directional rotating bezel with black ceramic insert, 120 clicks, engraved with elapsed time markings, 4mm flat Sapphire Crystal.
  • Rubber strap with steel buckle.
  • 130 grams excluding strap.
  • 1 year limited international warranty
  • Online shop accepts bank wire or paypal as the payment method
  • Order will be shipped by EMS
Retail Price : US$699.00
Special Offer : US$599.00 (US, Canada & Asia free shipping)






The skin-diver is great looking watch and a slight deviation away from the subs so far as the design style is closer to the Fifty Five Fathoms in my opinion, but I included it anyway as fits the genre.

It Comes with a Miyota 9015 Automatic movement and the price is currently on the website at $699 or £545 with an additional 10% off for Easter.

Screen Shot 2017-04-20 at 22.16.19

HELSON is a young watch company founded by enthusiastic divers and sport fanatics from Europe and Asia. It is our aim to create reliable and yet reasonably priced diverwatches, combining the best materials with long-lasting and for many years proven technology.

Our watches  are designed for the professional application under water as well as for everyone looking for a reliable and sportive watch that meets the requirements of an active lifestyle.    We use only high-quality suppliers like Miyota, Superluminova and ETA.


–Case: Brushed 316L surgical stainless steel – Ø 41 mm – height 14.5 mm – length 51mm – lug distance 20 mm.
–Crown: Screwed
–Crystal: Sapphire – 5.5 mm thick – vintage domed – inside AR coated.
–Water resistance: 300m
–Dial, hands and bezel markers coated with swiss SuperLuminova
–Bezel: Sapphire flat
–Bracelet: 20mm rubber strap – 20 mm mesh bracelet optional
–Movement: 24 Jewel Japanese Miyota 9015 automatic



Christopher Ward

C60 Trident Pro 600 Vintage Steel Vintage

Christopher Ward are not a microbrand, they are available in some shops, but they are worth taking a look at, the price bracket is similar at £725 (unless you wait for the post Christmas sale when you can save up to 50% on some models). The movement is a Sellita Sw200-1 which is in essence an ETA 2824-2 made by another Swiss manufacturer.


A true CW bestseller, the Pro 600 combines modern dive watch looks with the robust build quality you’d expect of a Trident.

The re-engineered 316L marine-grade stainless steel case incorporates a zirconia (ZrO2) ceramic unidirectional bezel for scratch resistance, while the watch is watertight at depths of up to 600 metres (2,000ft) – twice that of its predecessor.

The dial includes a smooth matt finish, while the indexes are now deep-filled with SuperLuminova SLN T C1 for additional luminosity. Our new logo sits at 9 o’clock.

The crown – embossed with our twin flag motif – is easier to use, while the backplate has the Trident motif deep-stamped and prominent. And if the self-winding movement is the same it’s only because there’s no better available mechanism for this watch.

Swiss movement manufacturer Sellita started as an outsourced manufacturer of ETA’s 2824-2 movement.

Changes in the industry, and the expiry of IP rights associated with the 2824, led to Sellita developing its own virtually identical version, the SW200-1. The only real difference is the addition of a 26th jewel which sits just below the ratchet wheel and reduces friction associated with automatic winding.


  • Diameter: 43mm
  • Height: 13.30mm
  • Case weight: 104g
  • Calibre: Sellita SW200-1
  • Case: 316L Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 60 ATM (600 metres)
  • Vibrations: 28,800 per hour
  • Timing tolerance: +20/-20 seconds per day
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Lume: SuperLuminova SLN-T-C1
  • Strap width: 22mm
  • Lug to Lug: 51.5mm



  • Swiss made
  • Self-winding elabore-grade mechanical movement
  • 38 hour power reserve
  • Date calendar
  • Central hacking seconds
  • Anti-shock system
  • Marine-grade, stainless steel case
  • Embossed screw-in crown
  • Unidirectional zirconia ceramic bezel
  • 3.4mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Guilloche wave pattern dial
  • Super-Luminova indexes and hands
  • Signature Trident counter-balance on seconds hand
  • Screw-down deep-stamped 3D backplate
  • Unique engraved serial number
  • Marine-grade stainless steel bracelet with micro-adjustable ratchet clasp
  • Luxury presentation case and owner’s handbook



I am sure there are a lot of more available choices for Subs, please get in contact if you feel something else should be included in a future post.

I have listed prices and will apologise now if the prices have changed when you finally read this, but they are accurate and published at the time of this post.

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